Foodie Tour

Written by Miles Johnson

When I was approached about being the host for Bakersfield Magazine’s First Annual Foodie Tour, I was elated. To this writer’s knowledge, nothing like it had been done before, so the opportunity to do something new and exciting was impossible to turn down. All I had to do was choose four friends, observe everything, and write about it. As it turns out, picking the victims…er, panel of esteemed Bakersfield residents was the easy part. The rest has proven to be quite a challenge, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

• The Night: Friday, August 22
• The Time: 5 p.m.
• The Place: My House

First to arrive was Jan Lemucchi, formerly of KKEY channel 11 Telemundo and diminutive wife of CBS 29 Eyewitness News anchor, Jeff Lemucchi. Close on her heels was the robust Kevin Burton, Marketing Director for the prestigious Law Offices of Young Wooldridge; lively Scarlett Sabin, Executive Director of the Bakersfield Chapter of the American Heart Association, and the renowned golden throat of local country radio station KUZZ, Casey McBride. A mix of stronger, more diverse personalities I doubt anyone could find.

By 5:20 p.m. we were whisked away in our chauffeur-driven limo…Didn’t I mention we were taking a limo? Look, if you and your friends are going to treat yourselves to a night out on the town, what better way to complete the affair than to hire a limousine for the evening? Rick from The Limousine Scene was a superb driver smoothly escorting our group through the treacherous downtown street repairs right to the very front door of our first stop.

• The Time: 5:30 p.m.
• The Place: Guthrie’s Alley Cat, est. 1940
• Our Host: Patricia Fike, manager extraordinaire

Guthrie’s has been a Bakersfield institution since 1940. Attracting a surprisingly diverse cross-section of Bakersfield residents, Guthrie’s has got a little something for everyone: the obligatory bar worn smooth from decades of elbows, a cozier banquet of tables and chairs flanking the opposing wall, and a pool room in the back lined with pictures, memorabilia, and a timeless red-velvet damask wall paper. Smashing!

Meeting us at our table was 18-year veteran of the libation landmark, Patricia (Trish), and as we settled ourselves she brought to us the first in a series of cocktails designed to whet the palate, stimulate the senses, and loosen the tongue. As a writer I had hit the jackpot! Bloody Marys ala Guthrie’s are handmade miracles in a glass, served hearty and spicy with pepperoncinis floating on top.

Note: It is my contention that beverages served with a garnish of vegetables or fruit could be considered a meal.

As we sipped our first drink of the evening it occurred to me that hiring a driver was not only a brilliant aesthetic choice, but a wise tactical one as well. Before heading off to our first food stop Trish treated us to a round of shots created by Roger, the master magician behind the bar. Called “Snuffleupagus,” the shots came generously poured into glasses closely resembling the size of rock tumblers. A word to the wise: this drink can be slammed or sipped as gingerly as one would a finely mixed martini. I suggest the latter because this divine concoction (a secret blend of sweet-n-sour mix, 7-Up, cranberry, and liquors) will sneak up on you.

Leaving Guthrie’s was no easy task. The temptation to simply linger amongst the locals and loud music, talk about the rejuvenation of Bakersfield’s downtown area, and drink ourselves silly was a strong one (well, for me it was). That and apparently the returning limo garnered some attention as we were accosted in the alley by “fans” of the local sort. As it was, one would have been hard-pressed to go anywhere with the public likes of Kevin Burton who, as you will read, couldn’t step outside the limo without knowing someone.

After piling into the limo we took turns discussing our thoughts on the landmarks of Bakersfield, some past, some present and some perennial. Both Scarlett Sabin and I confessed to never having been to Guthrie’s prior to this evening while Jan, Casey, and Kevin both recounted histories with the world-renowned bar dating back…well, a very long time (It would be rude for this writer to reveal even the approximate ages of my lady-friends in attendance).

Other things we learned that might interest you, dear reader: Guthrie’s leads in Jagermeister sales in Kern County; they offer a free beer back with any shot (but you have to ask for it), and that creating new, interesting drinks is as much science as it is art. Trish schooled us on the latest rage of drinks among the younger crowd: “bombs” or shots of various liquors that are dropped into glasses filled with an energy drink and guzzled all at once. If you haven’t at least tried a Statutory Grape, you don’t know what you’re missing. And if you do know what you’re missing, then you know the monkey that Casey McBride’s brother knows. (You’ll have to ask her for the details.)

Moving on.
• The Time: 6:30 p.m.
• The Place: Wool Growers, est. 1954
• Our Host: Jenny Poncetta, owner

We weren’t in the door to Wool Growers more than two steps before Kevin Burton was involved in a conversation with locals unknown at the bar. Our gracious host led us meandering through the various packed dining rooms to our waiting table (it pays to be connected). While Wool Growers does accept reservations, you can expect to wait up to an hour and a half without one. That’s quite a statement to the restaurant’s continued popularity over the past 54 years.

As with most traditional Basque restaurants, we were served plates of hard jack cheese, crusty French bread, and French fries—an absolute perfect follow-up to the barrage of cocktails at Guthrie’s. It was at this point that I tried to sneak in the fact that I, for all my intrepid worldliness had not yet been to Wool Growers. The stunned silence at our table was deafening. Like that scene in My Big Fat Greek Wedding when Aunt Voula (played by Andrea Martin) yells out, “What you mean, you don’t eat no meat!” and the whole room goes quiet except for a glass breaking in the background. “Oh, that’s OK, that’s OK. I make you lamb.” And the festivities resume.

Despite that, this was supposed to be a food “tasting,” so our gracious host lavished us with platter after platter of food, which we (I) anxiously devoured. The scampi-prepared shrimp were perhaps the best I have ever had. Large and tender, dripping with a succulent butter garlic wine sauce. I was told that I ate an entire platter myself but since there is no photographic evidence I refuse to admit any gluttony. Pass the napkins, please. The ox tail, another patron favorite was expertly prepared with a side platter of tender rice pilaf.

I asked my guests when they first remembered dining at Wool Growers. There were long histories from those that have spent much of their life in Bakersfield, and there were brief experiences. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the Wool Growers location is its humble exterior, which belies the incredible food and hospitality within.

True or False: Mr. Burton has eaten at Wool Growers so often it is rumored that Ms. Poncetta’s living room is named the KB living room.

Answer: False, but when Casey McBride told us that everyone at the table burst out with laughter.

Toward the end of our brief stay at Wool Growers, we boxed up the ample left-overs and headed out to the waiting limo. Rick stood ever-ready at the door ushering us to our next destination.

• The Time: 7:30 p.m.
• The Place: Sinaloa, est. 1948
• Our Host: Jeff Munoz, manager, et al.

As we pulled up to the covered entrance it became clear that our planned tour of Bakersfield’s most notorious eatery landmarks had been leaked to the public as we were once again greeted by a cluster of anxious fans begging for autographs and pictures. It was almost as if we were expected, what with the red carpet and all… Hmmmmmm. (Mental note: Speak to Editor about leaks to the press.) But I digress.

Upon our arrival, Jan insisted we go see the impressions in the cement of what she claims are the hand prints of children from when the Sinaloa’s location was once an orphanage prior to the restaurant relocating there from the current Wool Growers location. A subsequent call to Tom, acting manager of Sinaloa is that a current customer estimated to be 95 years young was once a reluctant resident of the 21st Street orphanage. Kevin Burton also seemed to think that the Sinaloa’s building was also once part of a “Red Light” district, but that is, as of yet, unconfirmed. What is evident is that Sinaloa’s location has a sordid, somewhat murky, but definitely colorful past. Rest assured to all concerned a call to “Ghost Hunters” has been made. Update to follow in a future issue: Bakersfield Magazine presents “The Ghosts of Bakersfield.”

We were ushered into our private round booth sequestered from the rest of the dining areas (apparently they had gotten notice of our impending arrival and wanted to ensure the safety of their other guests). Dim lights, heavily stuccoed walls, and margaritas (rocks, no salt, thank you very much), a refreshingly sublime setting for our next round of culinary delights.

First to arrive was a delightfully fresh guacamole served in a crisp flour tortilla shell and tortilla chips by our amazing waitress, Susie Uridi, herself a veteran of Sinaloa for over 35 years. Yes, 35 years. This was a refreshing juxtaposition to the French/Spanish-inspired sauced dishes we had admired earlier. The guacamole appetizer begat the inevitable discussion/competition of who in town serves up the best salsa, of which Kevin preemptively claimed the honor. Next on our table (besides talk about the use of fresh garlic in everything but apple pie) was a selection of demi-chicken tacos made with the most splendidly seasoned chicken meat, beef and chicken fajitas sizzling with flavor and a salsa that left tendrils of savory smoke in its wake giving Kevin Burton some very spicy competition.

In round-table fashion each of my guests recounted their first time dining at Sinaloa. While nibbling on a garden-fresh green onion, Ms. McBride preceded us all with her first visit dating back to the ‘80s (she must have been a child). One thing in common is that everyone seemed to share a geographical reference with Sinaloa either as a patron or as a landmark. So whether you know the history, the food, or Susie herself, Sinaloa must be at the top of the list of “must know” restaurants in Bakersfield.

• The Time: 8:30 p.m.
• The Place: KC Steak House, est. 1939
• Our Host: Charlotte Carter

Our arrival at KC Steak House did not go unnoticed (of course). The red carpet, the fans—it was all becoming too much—which made the escape into the famed steakhouse that much more of a relief. Crowded as it was, our host swiftly drew us back to a noisy, little table by the band: perfect! How could I resist? I grabbed Mrs. Sabin and threw her to the dance floor. In a space smaller than most closets, Scarlett and I cut the proverbial rug to “Twist” by Chubby Checker until the band segued to another favorite dance song: “A Lot About Livin’ (And a Little ‘Bout Love).” As we perused the bar crowd and dining patrons, the able band played some of our favorite 60’s-80’s hits. Next on my So-You-Think-You-Can-Dance hit list was Jan Lemucchi who held her own to “Be My Baby Tonight,” by John Michael Montgomery.

All in all, this stop is worthy of being the only stop. Note-worthy was the peppercorn steak which practically melted in my mouth, a delicate halibut complemented by a beurre blanc, and a perfectly seared selection of ahi (yellowfin) tuna served with a traditional wasabi dressing. Already full to capacity, this group of intrepid diners was more than up to the task of tasting a little bit of everything. We dined and chatted while nestled into our table as the house band crooned. Not only was the food more than worthy of 5 stars, but the ambiance, the dancing, and the band could make an evening all its own. Still, there was work to be done and desserts to be tasted.

• The Time: 9:30 p.m.
• The Place: Zingo’s, est. 1965
• Our Hosts: Gil and Diane Edmondson, owners

…Which brings us to our final stop—Zingo’s on Buck Owens Blvd. Renowned as the “truck stop” du jour, Zingo’s sports not only a hearty menu available 24 hours-a-day, a full bar replete with pool table and dart board, but a down-home dessert menu the likes of which draws travelers from across the country. Fragrant, freshly brewed coffee greeted us the moment we entered the restaurant. Not long after we sat down our waitress poured a round of “joe” and informed us of the evening’s delectable offerings. And while the origins of the modern “pie” can be loosely tracked back to ancient Egyptian times, it’s clear that the owners of Zingo’s have perfected the pastry art. Made by the owners themselves, the banana cream pie, Reese’s pie, chocolate and coconut cream pies, topped my Most Wanted list. We were joined by owner and old car enthusiast Gil Edmondson and treated to a brief history of Zingo’s including that of long-time customer Anita Belloumini. We discussed the differences between dining at our local favorites and the chain restaurants that seem to be popping up all over the city. Unanimously agreed upon was that no amount of “consistency” available from the cookie-cutter restaurants could take the place of the neighborly feel, the absolute commitment, and the unique flavors available from our locally owned establishments. It is, in fact like dining with family; gathering around a table, telling stories, laughing, and sharing great food. And isn’t that what it’s all about?

• The Time: 10:30 p.m.
• The Place: Home
• Your Host: Me

As I slowly slipped into a food-induced coma I wanted to share a few parting thoughts: That evening’s experience was a little extreme, but I hope it inspires you to try something adventurous and maybe even a little wacky. Invite another couple, your closest friends, or your bunko team to a night of touring Bakersfield’s array of fine restaurants. Want to keep it simple? Choose three of your favorite hangouts and create a progressive dinner. Or choose three restaurants you’ve never been to or three you haven’t been to in years to re-acquaint yourself.

Is a limo a little too ostentatious? Rent a convertible and let the wind whip through your hair between courses.

Second, buy local, patronize local businesses, and support the efforts of local business owners.

And finally, since this is going to be a regular feature for Bakersfield Magazine, be on the lookout for upcoming chances to win a spot on the next Foodie Tour!

Sweet Cuisine Dreams,

Miles

Article appeared in our 25-4 Issue - October 2008