Flame On

Written by Mike Stepanovich

The aroma grabs you first; that smell of seasoned meat grilling on an open fire. There’s nothing like it. It gets your mouth watering and your taste buds quivering in anticipation.

You almost need that aroma to find Fred’s Barbecue Factory, though. It’s not that easy to see, tucked behind Hooters on Rosedale Highway. In fact, when I called to get directions to the Barbecue Factory, the woman answering the phone said, “We’re behind Hooters.”

For the record, Fred’s Barbecue Factory is now located at 4208 Rosedale Highway, No. 309. Turn north onto Fairhaven Drive, and let your nose take over. You’ll also see the big grill and get a whiff of that sweet smoke.

I say “now located” because Fred’s Barbecue Factory used to be at The Ice House at 34th Street and Chester Avenue where it opened in 1987. Some years later, the Barbecue Factory moved to the Elk’s Lodge on 30th Street, but eventually closed. A couple years ago, Fred’s Barbecue Factory, with Fred Allison and brothers Julio and Jose Leon partnering, reopened on Rosedale Highway.

The back of their takeout menu tells the story: back in 1987, Allison opened the original Barbecue Factory at The Ice House with the Leon brothers as his top chefs. Now they’re partners.

It’s a partnership that Bakersfield has taken to in a big way. We found that out when we first arrived. We thought we’d gotten lucky when we found a parking spot right by the front door. But as we were getting out, one of the Leon brothers, who was busily grilling steaks and ribs, cautioned us that parking there could lead to grease being spattered on our car. He pointed to a sign that said the same thing. We took his advice and moved.

Once inside, our education into the Barbecue Factory began. We got in line to place our order. Off to our left was the dining room with a large mural of Fred, Julio, and Jose on the west wall. Several feet to the right, the mural showed a pig barbecuing a man. The pig’s revenge, no doubt. The restaurant is bright and airy, with plenty of light.

We made no bones about the fact that we were rookies at the Barbecue Factory. The young woman taking our order was most helpful, suggesting that one of their signature items was the baby-back pork ribs. A close second, she said, was the St. Louis-style ribs.

What’s the difference? we wondered. The woman took a deep breath, accentuating her rib cage. Pointing to the ribs on her front, she said, “The baby backs are like these, they’re smaller, more tender.” Then she turned and pointed to her back. Glancing back at us, she said, “These are where the St. Louis-style ribs come from; the bones are bigger and they’re a little more meaty, but they’re tougher.”

Several patrons in line chimed in. One man agreed with the woman and assured me the baby-backs were among the best around. Another preferred the St. Louis ribs. Yet another said the cheesecake was to die for. It was clear that the Barbecue Factory had a loyal following, many, I’m sure, dating to the restaurant’s days at The Ice House.

On another visit, we chatted with Kern County Superior Court Judge Gary Friedman, who was picking up his order. He also gave me tips on what to order.

I took the varied advice and ordered a tri-tip/baby-back ribs combo ($14.60), and subbed in potato salad for chili beans. My wife, Carol, was intrigued by a flyer touting the “Ralph Bailey Combo.” The flyer, featuring a photo of the popular radio talk-show host—who’s obviously a Barbecue Factory fan—was on a pole by the order counter. The Ralph Bailey Combo ($12.75) features St. Louis ribs, chicken, and potato salad. She chose that.

As it turned out, we couldn’t miss. Both were delicious. And the tri-tip was some of the best I’ve ever had. The baby-back ribs were as good as advertised. But as good as they were, I think I liked the St. Louis ribs better. They were thicker and meatier, and the seasoning was just right.

A word here about how the ribs are cooked: unlike other barbecue places whose slow-cooked ribs are drenched in barbecue sauce, the Barbecue Factory seasons its ribs with a rub and cooks them over the grill’s open fire. It’s a Western-style of cooking ribs: simple, straightforward, smoky. The result is honest, tasty ribs that are chewier than Southern-style ribs, but have a good meat flavor not masked by barbecue sauce.

That said, your order comes with good barbecue sauce that the employees insist is homemade. In fact, they said, most everything at the Barbecue Factory is homemade—the potato salad, the coleslaw, the chili beans, the salad dressings, the cheesecake, and carrot cake for dessert.

Another of my sides was the green salad; I chose the Italian dressing with it. It was a good choice—clearly homemade with herbs, olive oil, and a snappy vinegar. I enjoyed it.

Whatever you do, don’t miss the carrot cake! The Barbecue Factory’s is superb—moist, flavorful with just the right seasoning. We also enjoyed the cheesecake, but we loved the carrot cake! Add it to the reasons to go there.

The steaks that we had seen grilling during our first visit prompted us to return to try them. The steaks are not on the menu. You’ll find them listed on a laminated poster on the same pole as the Ralph Bailey Special flyer. New York, T-bone, and Porterhouse steaks are listed, all for about a dollar an ounce (the T-bone and Porterhouse are a few cents an ounce more). They range in size from 12 ounces up to a couple of pounds. We went for the gusto; Carol ordered an 18-ounce T-bone while I had an 18-ounce New York, about $18 each, including sides.

My steak was perfect for me—a tender, juicy medium rare. I thought I’d be taking some home with me, but once I got going, I couldn’t stop, and enjoyed every bite.

Carol prefers rare, though, and the moment we saw her steak we both knew it wasn’t going to be rare. The steak was broad and thin, virtually assuring it wouldn’t be rare. The chef immediately recognized the problem, was incredibly apologetic, whisked it away, and returned a couple minutes later with a perfectly rare steak. It was clear that the chef wanted to please his customer.

If you decide to visit the Barbecue Factory, be prepared for styrofoam plates and plastic ware. The side dishes come in plastic containers with snap-on lids, so if you don’t finish your potato salad or coleslaw, no problem; just snap on the lid and it’s ready to go home with you. Getting your steak on styrofoam, though, and a plastic knife and fork, might be a bit off-putting for some people. The disposables are the reason you can get a delicious steak for about a dollar an ounce, though. There are no dishes and utensils to wash, hence no need for a dishwasher.

Fred’s Barbecue Factory is also great for take-out. Just phone your order in, and pick it up at the counter. Call (661) 325-8800. Major credit cards accepted.

Article appeared in our 28-1 Issue - April 2011