Deli-cious

Written by Mike Stepanovich

I heard about Mill Creek Deli long before I ever stepped foot in the place. My wife, Carol, one of the cheerful volunteers at the Assistance League of Bakersfield, and her colleagues, discovered the Mill Creek Deli shortly after it opened in November 2009.

And what I heard about most was the Muffaletta. The Assistance League ladies would walk up to the small restaurant for their lunch break, have their sandwiches, then stroll back. Carol would describe this wonderful sandwich, and before long she started suggesting that I schedule a lunch there, too.

I was intrigued that a local deli would be offering a version of the classic New Orleans sandwich, so eventually we set a lunch date. My only disappointment was that I didn’t get there sooner. But I’m getting ahead of myself...

We arrived at the quaint place at the corner of 18th and R streets. A few people were ahead of us in line waiting to place orders. A large chalkboard on the left wall behind the counter has the menu. On the wall in the dining area is a mural featuring numerous Bakersfield landmarks and logos.

A young Buck and Merle are depicted. The Bakersfield sign that for so long spanned Union Avenue but is now at the Crystal Palace is on there. Same with the Bakersfield Inn, Beale Clock Tower, Andre’s Drive-in, Maison Jaussaud’s, and more.

Step through the doorway into the bar, and you’ll find another mural featuring more of Bakersfield’s history. In the hallway are pictures of circa 1920s Kern County High School football teams with legendary coach Goldie Griffith.

Outside, at the 18th Street curb is a 1936 Dodge Brothers “Humpback” panel truck, so called because the back humps up above the cab’s roofline. It’s painted yellow and white with the deli’s logo and phone number on the side. It has the original wire wheels, though the ignition indicates that a modern motor sits under the hood.

I haven’t even made it to the counter and I like the feel of this place already.

A couple minutes later, we’re at the counter, and Robin Henkel, who it turns out is the owner’s granddaughter, greets Carol with a beaming smile and a “Hey! How ya doin’? What can I getcha?”

Carol explains that I’m a rookie here, and that we need two Muffalettas ($6.75 each). “You got it!” Robin exclaims. We pay, get our drinks, and find a seat. A few minutes later, John Bell, a grandson of the owner, delivers our sandwiches.

The sandwiches are about six-inches around, and have been grilled in a sandwich press. Inside, you find ham and hard salami (Mill Creek Deli, in deference, perhaps, to West Coast tastes, also offers a turkey Muffaletta), homemade tapenade, provolone, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, and mayonnaise. Simply put, the sandwich is divine! No wonder Carol was raving about this all these months. The freshness, the flavors—absolutely delicious!

I’m so taken by my lunch that I vow to return soon. And a week later, I’m back. The Muffaletta was so good, I reason, the other sandwiches must be good, too.

Robin is there again, and tells me I should try the lasagna lunch special. She gestures with her thumb toward a smaller chalkboard behind her that lists the week’s specials: cheeseburger on Mondays ($5), meatloaf sandwich on Tuesdays ($5.50), lasagna on Wednesdays ($5.95), grilled Polish sandwich on Thursdays ($5.50), and tuna- or egg-salad sandwich on Fridays ($5.50).

I have my heart set on a grilled Polish sandwich, but since I’m there on a Wednesday, I pay full price ($6.75).

I also grab a bag of California Chips, a small potato-chip maker in Oxnard. Turns out the potatoes are from Bakersfield, the sunflower oil used to fry them is from Northern California, and the sea salt is from San Francisco Bay. Just another reason to like Mill Creek Deli.

My sandwich is splendid! The sausages are sliced lengthwise with a wedge of dill pickle in the trough between the sausage halves on grilled rye. Some mustard and Swiss cheese make this a great lunch.

The following week I try the Italian sub ($6.95). I’m three for three, because this cold sandwich is every bit as good as the others. It’s sort of a cold Muffaletta: ham, hard salami, provolone, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles, pepperoncinis, mayo, mustard, and oil and vinegar on a deli roll. It is so moist and delicious!

I also opted for one of the side salads, trying the Italian pasta salad ($2). It’s penne with black and green olives, red and green julienned bell peppers, herbs, onions, olive oil, and a little wine vinegar. This is a cut above your average pasta salad—it’s full of flavor, moist and tasty.

I caught up with owner Brenda Sharp the day after a Third Thursday event sponsored by the Downtown Business Association that left her beat. But her sunny demeanor shines through, despite her tired feet and knees.

She’s a ‘61 graduate of South High, that school’s first graduating class, and Mill Creek Deli “is my little dream. I always wanted a place of my own.”

She founded the business knowing what she was getting into. “I have a lot of professional cooks in my family,” she said. Her aunt was at Banducci’s on Edison Highway years ago, and Brenda worked at the legendary Maison Jaussaud’s on South Union Avenue (it’s now Golden West Casino) a dozen years or so. And “my grandmother’s husband was Spanish Basque, a true sheep herder.”

So Mill Creek Deli is a blend of Italian and Basque, with some French influences tossed in as well.

She owned Gazebo beauty salon “on the other side of town” for about 20 years before selling it, which “gave me enough money to buy this building.” The building previously housed a beauty shop and The Silver Fox bar.

Her recipes are part of Bakersfield lore:

• The Italian sausage sandwich ($6.75) is another exceptional dish. “My grandmother used to make that at Banducci’s.”

• The pickled tongue. “That’s Maison Jaussaud’s recipe. I make it myself. I buy the tongue fresh; cook it; then skin it; thinly slice it; and pickle it in garlic, oil, and vinegar. I sell it by the pound in addition to the pickled-tongue sandwich ($6.50).”

• The lasagna is her specialty. Saxophonist Richie Perez, who has dropped by, raves about it. “It’s love at first bite,” he says. Hmmm, maybe I should have listened to Robin.

• The Basque white bean salad. That’s Maison Jaussaud’s recipe, too.

• The meatloaf is Robin’s speciality. “Robin’s been here with me since day one and prides herself on the meatloaf; she makes the meatloaf.”

• The cheeseburger is something, she said. “I hand-pat the patties, and use fresh lettuce, onions, tomatoes, pickles, but it’s the secret sauce that makes it special.”

She said the secret to her success is the best quality ingredients. “I buy the best quality meats, and Pyrenees Bakery delivers our bread fresh each day. I’d rather have quality; it pays off.

Brenda’s making changes slowly as business picks up. “I’m soon going to get a fryer and do fish and chips. I’ll only use Alaskan cod. And I’m going to have fried green tomatoes.” Eventually she plans on adding a dinner menu.

This delightful family-owned and staffed restaurant is a great lunch destination: the food’s great and the atmosphere’s terrific. Find out for yourself weekdays 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Call (661) 328-9999 for take-out.

Article appeared in our 28-2 Issue - June 2011