Foodie Tour II: Punishment for Gluttons

Written by Miles Johnson

When we told people we wanted to put on another Foodie Tour, they scoffed! You’ll never top the first one, they said. Well, the joke’s on them because we did. We chose five fabulous restaurants, booked one seriously swanked-out limo, and invited a camera crew to come along for the ride. What follows is the chronicle of our friendly Foodies as they embarked on what was to be the most delicious and most glamorous Foodie Tour to date...

The Fellowship of the Food

Prelude: In the beginning there were five strangers.

Yvonne Cavanaugh, one-half of the Surface Gallery partnership and vivacious mistress of ceramics.

Trish Reed, A-List contest winner, mother and professional at the Kern Economic Development Corporation.

Maggie Cushine came to us by way of the Boys and Girls Club of Kern County as their Resource Development Director.

Siemny Chhuon, KBAK & KBFX morning anchor and self-proclaimed food adventurer.

Dustin Legan, overly health-conscious half of the sibling duo of 101.5 KGFM’s morning show.

And me, (Miles Johnson) intrepid host and wordsmith. The “Gandalf” to our Fellowship if you will. Both guide and follower, speaker and listener, supporter and critic. But a Foodie Tour of Bakersfield wouldn’t be complete without the posse: a well-oiled machine including Anika (our task-master and manager deluxe) and Isabel, photog and perpetual smiling face. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Bakersfield Magazine event if the night wasn’t documented, so with a film crew from KBAK/KBFX hot on our heels, and capturing exclusive footage, we began our evening.

This year’s Foodie Tour was all about striking a balance; blending the new with the old. That is why I chose to begin our culinary soirée at the hot, new downtown art-spot, Surface Gallery. Co-owners Yvonne Cavanaugh and Vikki Cruz have made it their personal mission to expand on the premise that downtown Bakersfield will be the next, big art-spot in the San Joaquin Valley. And meeting at “Surface G” (my pet name, not theirs) was definitely a winner for all concerned. A recently-opened show of juried works using recycled materials was a hit, partnered with a delectable selection of wine, fresh fruit, and cheese. What better way could there be to starting an evening out on the town but by enjoying some fine wine and exceptional art?

As the Fellowship convened, introductions were made, acquaintances were renewed, and a tickling sense of anticipation began to settle lightly in the art-filled loft. Before long it was time to begin our tour of the Downtown food scene. One by one we made our way to our waiting limo (yes, we roll in style) and met our tour guide: driver and captain of the transportation, Gary Johannesen of Limousine Scene. We all made ourselves comfortable, relishing in the ambiance of dim lights, and were whisked away to our first stop of the evening.

Act I: Welcome to Sandrini’s

Before Sandrini’s claimed the space, it was called Lucky’s; a basement with the atmosphere of a smoky nightclub. But with the Sandrini family, a new and exciting food spot was born. With a lively bar, music-filled stage, and a kitchen of impeccable skill, this was the obvious place to begin sampling our fill of food and drink. After navigating the stairs we were escorted to a cozy corner booth and attended to by our server, Tyler. With crisp efficiency, the first of several rounds of drinks was brought to the table and passed around. A sampling of international beers began to whet the palate as well as loosen tongues beginning with a delightful sip of Belzabuth, an inspired French ale and quickly followed by Wells Banana Bread and a lambic-style, raspberry-infused frambois called Lindemans. This was certainly a nice change of pace from the American pale-ale standards. But Sandrini’s owner, Al wasn’t about to let us be swayed by imported, carbonated beverages alone. Plates of the most sumptuous breads were brought to the table with disarming ease. Fresh, crusty artisan bread with a variety of toppings helped to pave the way for stouter drinks. Freshly prepared pesto, roasted red tomato, olive tapenade, and a classically rustic bruschetta were the perfect complement to the selection of cocktails we were treated to. Raspberry Lemon Drops and a tongue-numbingly strong Manhattan served “up” brought a little more character to our little group.

However, the crowning jewel of our stop at Sandrini’s was the hearty and possibly sobriety-inducing Sausage Bread made freshly on premises. Al let us know that the Sausage Bread was perhaps their biggest seller and for very good reason: this appetizer can take on the solo performance of being a meal in itself! Stuffed with savory sausage and Italian cheeses, this family-inspired nosh didn’t last long at our table.

With a name and roots (almost literally) deeply planted in the Kern County landscape, it came as something of a surprise how amiably Al spoke with us. His quiet disposition almost belies the passion with which he elaborated on the recipe for the Sausage Bread. Without hesitation, Al expanded on the deceptively simple list of ingredients so that we might attempt to recreate the hearty bread at home. But with such friendly (and quick!) service it begs the question, “Why?” A romantic evening sampling international beer and nibbling Sausage Bread while ensconced in the uniquely subdued charm of Sandrini’s is the perfect excuse not to cook. Before we could finish signing autographs and pose for a couple pictures we were escorted back to the waiting limo and sent dizzily on our way.

Interlude: Seeking the experience: Limo rides, painting ceramics and surreptitious cell phone pictures.

Act II: Mama Roomba—the Plot Thickens

Hearkening to the ambiance found mainly in urban sidewalk cafes, Mama Roomba opens into a tiny, 10-table dining area with a cozy bar and outside seating along the sidewalk facing Eye Street. Warm and eclectic, the atmosphere begs to be enjoyed time and again, especially with their minty mojitos (even the non-alcoholic variety) that keep summer temperatures at bay.

On the table waiting were some of the finest tapas available: sweet potato fries lightly seasoned and piled high, fried cheese with a delectable guava dip, and a cool, refreshing shrimp ceviche (my personal favorite) served with fresh avocado and a corn relish that is quite simply without peer. Last, but certainly not least was the presentation of the most sumptuous deep-fried whole red snapper this writer has ever seen. Unable to contain myself, I grabbed the plate and began removing the flaky flesh from the bones and mingling it with the sautéed selection of fresh julienned vegetables. With ample portions for everyone to taste, the family-style meal commenced with gusto.

As we sipped mojitos, the conversation turned to the ownership of Mama Roomba. Riding a successful crest of three years in business, Victor Hugo Casas and Executive Chef Isaac Mancilla both have much to be proud of, not the least of which is a strong commitment to the patrons that have supported them since day one. Most in our group noted that both Victor and Isaac are perpetual figures, assuring the finest of foods in a comfortable, family-like setting. It is, in fact, one of the common denominators of all the long-lived establishments the Bakersfield Magazine Foodie Tour has visited in the past two years that the owners are as much a fixture of their business as the food and spirits they serve. But as the saying goes: you don’t own a restaurant, it owns you (or something to that effect). As if on cue, Victor dropped by our table to welcome us. Ever the charmer, Victor is, to me, the paragon of the Downtown business owner. His sincere desire to breathe much-needed life back into the downtown area is (hopefully) an infectious one.

En route to the waiting limo, we were again asked to pose for pictures and acknowledge the anticipating crowd of Foodie Groupies.

Interlude: Divining the future, “faux-ality” T.V. shows, and “we don’t do retail.”

Act III: Bill Lee’s Magic

As we maneuvered our way through the curious on-lookers we were ushered from the red carpet reception at Bill Lee’s front door into the Patrick Nagel-inspired interior of the lounge. Frequented since their opening some 70 years ago, Bill Lee’s has remained a staple of the food-going public almost as long as there has been a food-going public in Bakersfield. No more profoundly was this point driven home than during an impromptu magic show at the bar—but I’m getting ahead of myself.

A round of Mai-Tais appeared as if our hosts were reading my mind. And as we settled comfortably into our booth, excitement grew as some of our company admitted to having never experienced the unique lounge atmosphere of Bill Lee’s. Sherman Lee, son of the founder, provided a bit of history as well as optimistic speculation on their future, crediting the loyalty of their long-time customers as well as good old-fashioned hard work and dedication to quality.

Boiled and perfectly seasoned shrimp accompanied by crowd-pleasing pot-stickers made their way around our table as Sherman recounted how Bill Lee’s has been a dependable mainstay to the Bakersfield downtown food scene since 1938. As generation after generation flow through their doors, it comes as no great surprise that people who have left Bakersfield inevitably crave this landmark whenever they come back for a visit. To their added credit, Bill Lee’s is famous for its consistency. For as Sherman pointed out, some of their staff has been with the restaurant for 40 or more years. Which brings us to the real magic happening behind the bar...

Frivolity ensued as patrons around the bar felt compelled to participate in our festivities by throwing napkins to get our attention. But as a warm Asian Chicken Salad, savory Asparagus with Beef, and spicy Kung Pao Chicken Chow Mein made its way to our table, I found myself too easily distracted. But not distracted enough not to enjoy a good round of magic tricks performed by Ken between mixing his world-famous libations. Coming up on his 50th anniversary with Bill Lee’s, Ken Brenneman began his career as a busboy at the tender age of 15. As a personal friend of Mr. Bill Lee, Ken has seen some amazing changes to his workplace; as Bakersfield has grown, so has Bill Lee’s to meet the needs of its community. However, no amount of history lessons could have prepared us for the sheer joy in which Ken performed his magic. Clearly, entertaining his guests with charm and value is a legacy that Mr. Bill Lee established so many years ago and continues through the dedication of Sherman and Ken to this day.

It took some convincing to get us to remove ourselves from the relaxing enclave of Bill Lee’s lounge. How could one possibly top dinner and a show?

Interlude: Second chances, bracing for more, ghost stories, and Foodie stalkers.

Act IV: Pulling Out All the Stops, Uricchio’s

Pulling up to Uricchio’s, it became evident that this was the one stop everyone had been to before. But conversation on the topic dissolved as we were met with another throng of Foodie Groupies vying for pictures and autographs. This proved advantageous since the packed dining room created a bit of a wait for our party. One-by-one fans were assuaged, t-shirts were gifted, and pictures snapped as our table became available. Escorted by Claire to a table with prime viewing, we made our way past the open kitchen. I couldn’t help but stop and say HI to Rafael, Uricchio’s Executive Chef and an old acquaintance of this writer. While the place bustled with fervent activity, Rafael still found a moment to chat for a spell.

Like clock-work, beverages and appetizers began appearing on our table. A plate piled with delicately fried calamari and a Salad Caprese so fresh the buffalo mozzarella squeaked when you bit into it. Before the plates had a chance to make a full round of the table a number of splendid entrées were presented: a classic, yet amazing, Chicken Piccata, penne pasta with scallops and shrimp tossed in a sublime pesto sauce, and a family-inspired braised chicken and Italian sausage with fresh vegetables in a rich brown sauce named for Nick, the owner and founder. As an added surprise, our gracious host Claire gave us a pre-dessert stop tasting of Vanilla Cheesecake, a signature Chocolate Windmill, and a Crème Brulee cheesecake that simply melted on the tongue.

As we devoured each entrée, conversation turned to the factors that have made Uricchio’s a cornerstone of the Downtown eat-scene. Echoed time and again are the two most common factors: excellent food and a keen eye for developing long-term relationships within the community. Open for both lunch and dinner, the up-scale Uricchio’s serves a non-stop parade of shoppers, business folk, and Italian cuisine enthusiasts. And whether you’re a first-time diner or a weekly regular, the staff and leadership of Uricchio’s never lets you feel like anything less than family, which is why leaving Uricchio’s took such an effort.

Interlude: Wrapping things up before you go-go.

Act V: Punishment for Gluttons—The grand finale: Just Desserts at Maxwell’s

It’s usually about this time in the tour that ambition flags. Not because the last stop isn’t worth every delicious mouthful, but because heads and stomachs reel with an overload of information and flavor. Still, Terry of T.L. Maxwell’s went above and beyond to ensure our final destination was sweet torture.

Staying open a bit past their normal time, T.L.’s pulled out all the stops in presenting and serving some of the most sinful desserts you will find in Bakersfield.

Delivered to our table with an understated flourish, all the desserts tempted, teased, and cajoled their way into already-full bellies. But most notable among the offerings were the signature Malva Pudding, traditional Crème Brulee, Kahlua Fantasy, and the Angelica. Honestly, entire articles could be written on the amazing dessert selection T.L.’s offered. All bringing a soothing balance of sweetness that didn’t over-power their intended flavors. After all, anyone can throw some sugar on a plate and call it “dessert.” It is the thoughtful chef that can strike a balance between fruit, nuts, vanilla, and chocolate. And didn’t I say from the very beginning that this Foodie Tour was all about striking a balance? Yes, I did.

Our server, Kam, delivered the dessert menu with such delicate precision that it suddenly became impossible to imagine the night without a spoonful of T.L.’s brand of punishment. Or two or three. Fortunate for us (and you, dear reader) many businesses will happily consider flexing their services/hours to suit the needs of their customers. Be it offering banquet and special occasion rooms or just staying a bit late, places like T.L.’s have built solid reputations on delivering both exquisite cuisine as well as spot-on service.

As is customary with family and new-found friends, spoons and forks dove randomly into the decadent selection of desserts. As was touched on during last years’ Foodie Tour, anyone willing to try something new and adventurous can coordinate their own progressive dinner throughout Bakersfield. By simplifying the process (one needn’t visit five restaurants in one night) a roaming party of friends can enjoy the best Bakersfield has to offer by gathering at a local gallery, taking in some art, then meandering between two or three restaurants within walking distance. Having a limo helps add to the ambiance but it isn’t a necessity (unless someone over-imbibes). Keeping an open mind and “going with the flow” is key when putting together a night for friends and family; chasing down the tastes that make Bakersfield unique.

Epilogue: This Show was recorded before a Live Audience

Anyone who has followed the Foodie Tour, read about the Foodie Tour, been or wanted to be part of the Foodie Tour knows that there is always a moral to the end of our journey:

Keep it local, keep it fun, and (of course) keep it safe.

In this day and age of innumerable methods of communication, there is something each of us can do to support our local businesses. Twitter, Facebook, or Blogger are instant methods of telling your friends and family about your amazing local experiences in and around Bakersfield. This writer believes it is no longer enough to simply leave the tip. You’ve got to pay it forward by spreading the good word about your favorite locally-owned hot-spots. You’ve got to give second chances. And you have got to be willing to step outside your comfort zone so that you can rediscover Bakersfield for all it has to offer all over again.

Sweet Culinary Dreams,

Miles

Article appeared in our 26-2 Issue - June 2009

Add Comment