HAIR-Hairdo or Hair-don’t?

Written by Bakersfield Magazine

Like clothing, hair needs to flatter your shape. Only it’s your face shape that is what’s important here.

And while we’ve all been guilty of trying a style that just doesn’t work for us—it’s high time we knew why that look failed. Your facial structure will determine what type of haircut looks good and what looks bad, so here are some things to keep in mind next time you go “under the scissors.”

First, you need to determine your own face shape. So, you can break out a ruler and measure the sections of your face to compare width and height (but who’s going to do that?) or you can, according to HairStyleDesign.com, do a simple post-shower measurement. Let the steam settle on the mirror in the bathroom after a hot shower and when you can just see the outline of your face in the mirror, trace it and what you will see is the shape of your face. Unless you’re not human, your face should fall into one of these categories: oval, square, oblong, round, and triangle.

Oval faces are considered the “hourglass” of face shapes and are often referred to as the most desirable (think Eva Mendez). If this is what you see in the mirror, then you can pull off nearly any haircut and you also have the most room to experiment. Your only challenge is to choose what part of your face you want to accentuate. It could be your eyes or your cheekbones. According to TheHairStyler.com, the only styles you should avoid are ones that “hang in your face or eyes.”

If you find a square shape on the mirror, then your face is about as wide as it is long. Square faces have strong jawlines and features and your goal is to soften these lines as much as possible. You should consider side-swept bangs and height at the crown of your head. Think soft, soft, soft and if you want long hair, try fluffy and wispy curls. You should always avoid middle parts and solid, blunt bangs and any cut that is all one length—especially chin length. Look to classic square faces like Sandra Bullock or Gwyneth Paltrow for hair inspiration.

Oblong is not as odd as it sounds...just ask Sarah Jessica Parker. It merely means you have a longer face, generally longer in length than width. Your aim when choosing a hair style is “chop and frame.” Those chic, straight bangs are for you! They significantly shorten the length of your face, but always pair them with a side part because a middle part will add length. It’s all about width with you. Generally, look to styles in medium to long lengths with waves or body that soften your long, elegant facial lines.There is no need to add height at the crown, so stop with the teasing!

If you drew a circle on the mirror, either you had a hard time tracing or you actually have a round face. If you are the latter, then you are probably like Ginnifer Goodwin—a poster woman for those with round faces. As far as bangs go, you can do without them, but if you insist, then opt for a swept-across look à la Cameron Diaz. If you decide to go short, then go all the way and don’t let your hair hit your chin on the way down. Your focus is all about height, not width, so aim for looks that give you fullness at the crown and not at the sides of your face. A middle part will make your face appear longer, so draw that line and remember (if you have a round face, that is) to keep styles slim and close to your cheeks.

If your chin is the narrowest part of your face and your cheekbones and forehead are the widest, you have a heart-shaped face (which falls in the round category). If you must have bangs, take a tip from Reese Witherspoon and About.com and go for side-swept fringe and avoid bangs that hang straight across as they will add width to the widest part of your face. Aim for most of the texture to be near your chin. If you like your hair long, then ask for long wavy layers that fall around your neck. You want to add width to your narrow chin to give the illusion of balance. Don’t opt for short, choppy layers and definitely avoid too much short shag on the top as it will widen your forehead, making you look like something discovered at Area 51.

Finally, if you have a prominent jaw and a narrow forehead, you drew a triangular shape in the steam. According to Style-Makeover-HQ.com, the goal with a triangular face is “to minimize your jaw-line and add width at your temples.” Do this by going for styles that add height and “a little width at the temples.” Try a side part and, if you want bangs, ask for longer fringe swept to the side. Keep long styles close to your head at the jawline to give a slimming effect.

So, how do you go from drawing your facial outline on the mirror to finding a cut that matches your face? Thanks to HairStyleDesign.com, here are some things to think about...and to bring up with your hair stylist when you’re in the hot seat.

1. Height at the top elongates the face.

2. Angular cuts at chin length slim a face.

3. Bobs and blunt cuts draw the eye to the bottom of the cut.

4. Hair pulled away from the face makes the eyes appear larger.

5. Layering can soften hard lines in a face shape.

Another thing to consider is haircut trends. It doesn’t matter how much you believe feathered bangs will complement your mullet (although they may have in 1985), they will under no current circumstances make you look fabulous. And we may need to have a chat with your stylist (who may or may not be Billy Ray Cyrus).

A great new hairstyle can be a transformation, so don’t be afraid to keep your mind open. Pay attention to the shape of your face the next time you go in for a new ’do. The most flattering cut for your face might be much different than the hairstyle you go into the salon with.

Image by ©istockphoto.com/gehringj

Article appeared in our 28-2 Issue - June 2011