Picture Perfect

Written by Miles Johnson

Hi. My name is Miles. I am a compulsive farmers’ market shopper.

Given the opportunity, I could peruse the local markets from dawn ‘til dusk and still find a justification to hunt down that one last good bargain of the day. I have, it can be said, taken to a rather European approach to food shopping, taking it day by day and allowing my culinary muse to guide my palate’s craving du jour. While I do tend to stock up on canned and dry goods, I find most of my inspiration comes from the daily strolls through Bakersfield’s seasonal and year-round farmers’ markets. In fact, our very geographic location is ripe for the pickin’s (so to speak) and the abundance of fresh-from-the-farm goodness can be a little overwhelming to the uninitiated.

If you’ve never been to a farmers’ market (or even if you’re a “pro”) here are a few tips that will make your shopping experience enjoyable, educational, and just plain fun!

1 Sun block! Some markets open at dawn while others don’t begin parlaying their goods until 3 p.m. or later. Tent-covered tables abound but the walk from vendor to vendor can still result in a pretty good burn to the nose and shoulders if left unprotected.

2 Bring small bills. Vendors like not having to break twenties.

3 Bring your own recyclable bags. It’s good for the environment and keeps costs down for both you and the growers.

4 Not all vendors at a farmers’ market are (or need to be) recognized by the California Federation of Certified Farmers’ Markets. It is customary for a sign to disclose the affiliation of a vendor. Also, don’t assume that everything at a farmers’ market is “organic” or “pesticide free.” When in doubt, ask the vendor.

The single best piece of advice I can offer any farmers’ market newbie is to let go any pre-conceived notion about what you might (or want to) find. This may require a greater degree of culinary flexibility but the pleasant surprises yielded at a morning market often outweigh the lack of advanced menu planning. And while many perennial veggies will grace the tables of vendors the year round, some less-than-frequent finds will make last-minute dish decisions a fun, little adventure.

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The fact of the matter is that much of the produce found at a farmers’ market isn’t exactly shiny, waxed, or as visually perfect as their grocery store counterparts. And there-in lies the charm as well as the savings. Still, what is lost in aesthetics is more than made up for in flavor, nutrition, and peace of mind. Who could resist the rustic appeal of gnarly tubers with greens still attached; knobby, tree-ripened fleshy fruits; or a tangled wig of fragrant herbs?

Finding the freshest ingredients is only the first step in the journey to comestible gratification. Aligning the herbaceous acquisitions with the right recipes is the second. On one of my daily trips, I scored a sensational bonanza of botanicals: red and yellow peppers the size of small melons, Thai basil, jalapeños, diminutive eggplant, tree-ripened peaches, zucchini, and tomatoes. I also found a table piled high with farm-fresh eggs. The question then becomes: what to do? Here are a few ideas I came up with but the possibilities are endless.

Thai Basil, Ginger, and Garlic-Infused Olive Oil

• 2 sprigs of Thai basil
• 2 cloves of fresh garlic
• Fresh root of ginger
• EVOO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil)
• Glass container with air-tight closure

The first thing to do is place your EVOO in a large sauté pan (enough to almost fill each glass container you plan to use) over the lowest heat setting you can. Wash your basil and pat dry, remove the skin from a couple cloves of fresh garlic, and thinly slice your ginger root.

Place your garlic cloves and sliced ginger root in the glass container followed by the basil. Be sure to gently “bruise” the basil by pinching it just prior to placing in the container; this will help to release the flavor into the oil. Fill the container with the warmed EVOO and seal. Place in a dark location until the container and contents reach room temperature, then refrigerate. Because olive oil is a mono-saturated fat it must be refrigerated (especially with the addition of the herbs) or it will turn rancid in a matter of days. An added tip is to place the container in a paper bag so as to shield it from any light source while in the fridge. To get a really good flavor into your oil the sealed container should remain undisturbed for at least two weeks. Then, you can strain the oil from the other ingredients or leave them in—just know that the flavor will become stronger over time.

Infused oils are super-simple and make thoughtful hostess, birthday, or holiday gifts.

The typical farmers’ market has loads of greens to choose from which always make for a delightful, refreshing, and nutritious salad. Of course, a simple dressing made with fresh ingredients will compliment any meal.

Fresh Peach and Basil Vinaigrette

• 1 ripe peach, skinned and pitted
• 1 Tbsp. white vinegar of choice
• (I prefer rice-wine vinegar for this recipe but feel free to experiment)
• 1/2 Tbsp. sugar
• 2 Tbsp. EVOO, safflower oil, or even vegetable oil will do
• 1 healthy sprig of Thai basil, cleaned, stemmed, and finely chopped

Place all but the EVOO and basil in a food processor or blender and pulse until smooth. On medium speed slowly drizzle the EVOO into the mixture until evenly emulsified and smooth. Then, gently stir in the basil. Splash this fabulous dressing over a plate of chilled greens with fresh peach slices, a slice of soft chève, and chopped pecans.

Another thing I was inspired to do was to put those gorgeous eggs to good use. For the recondite-wary cook, an egg souffle might sound too complicated. Trust me when I say: if you can slice, dice, and stir (or “fold”), you can make a souffle your friends will marvel over.

Farmers’ Market Vegetable Confetti Souffle

1 small chopped onion (about 1/4 cup)

1 fresh garlic clove (yup—more garlic)

3 Tbsp. margarine (not butter!)

1/4 Cup all-purpose flour

1 Tsp. freshly minced herb of choice

1/4 Tsp. salt

Pinch of pepper

1 Cup milk (2 percent works best)

1 Cup shredded cheese with a low milk content such as cheddar or Swiss

1 Cup finely diced vegetables (like zucchini, eggplant, and red pepper)

3 eggs, separated

In a small sauté pan over medium heat, “sweat” the onion, garlic, and margarine until tender and fragrant. Stir in the flour, herbs, salt, and pepper—this makes a roux of sorts. Add the milk and allow to cook down until thick and bubbly. Remove from heat and add in your cheese, stirring until completely melted and blended. Add in your diced veggies, stir until combined, and set aside.

Your eggs should be separated, yolks in one bowl and whites in a mixing bowl. Fork-beat your egg yolks and add to your vegetable mixture until thoroughly combined. In the mixer beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form.

Take about one third of the beaten egg whites and gently “fold” it into the vegetable mixture—I recommend using a broad spatula for folding. This helps to “prepare” the vegetable mixture for the remaining egg whites—don’t ask me why—it just works better than doing it all at once. Pour the vegetable mixture over the remaining egg whites and fold the whole concoction together until light and airy. Over-folding will release too much of the captured air so be careful not to overdo it; traces of visible egg whites in the mixture are completely acceptable.

Pour the whole mixture into an un-greased* 1 1/2 quart souffle dish.

*Chefs Tip: “Un-greased” is crucial to the success of any souffle. Why? As the mixture heats up in the oven, the trapped air in the egg whites expands driving the mixture up (kinda like a cake). As the mixture bakes, it grabs onto the walls of the dish helping to support and maintain the height of the souffle. Grease doesn’t allow this!

Bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes or until a cake tester (toothpick, bamboo skewer, or a thin knife will do) inserted near the center comes out clean. This dish is best presented from oven to table with as little delay as possible.

Step 12 (yeah, I skipped a few)

Having had an esculent awakening, we try to carry this message to others, and to practice these principles in all our culinary affairs.

Not just for the die-hard herbivore, our local markets offer a wonderful variety of products that didn’t come straight from the soil. Fresh-baked goods, pure fruit juices, free-range eggs, and even the occasional hand-crafted item will round out any shopping trip. The farmers’ markets in our area are truly a cornucopia of natural goodness. With unparalleled flavor, not to mention the bucks to be saved, you owe it to yourself, your city, and your local growers to at least give ‘em a try. It’s the next best thing to growing your own vegetables!

Sweet Culinary Dreams,

Miles

P.S. Visit our website and check out my new blog, A Pinch of This and a Blog of That!

Article appeared in our 26-4 Issue - October 2009

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