Going Green - Mulch

Written by Bakersfield Magazine

In a classic episode of The Simpsons, Lisa falls for a young dreamboat environmental activist, whom she tries to impress by explaining she started a compost pile in her backyard.

He responds with, “You mean you don’t pocket-mulch?” and proceeds to show her a handful of decomposing debris extricated from his pants pocket (presumably, these are hemp pants).

The important thing to take away from this is that composting is not only for granolas and stereotypical environmentalist groups—anyone with a yard can benefit from starting a compost pile.

Sadly, “My First Compost Pile” kits are not available—you’ve got to do a bit of research before you embark on this. That’s why we’ve put together a few things to keep in mind when starting your composting journey.

First off, you might be asking yourself “Why compost?” The answer is simple and two-fold.

According to TheGardenofOz.org, “compost is good for two very compelling reasons. It’s great for the garden, and it’s environmentally responsible...it improves the soil, which in turn supports healthier and more productive plants.” The site goes on to explain that “compost provides virtually all of the essential nutrients for healthy plant growth, and it almost always releases those nutrients over time to give plants a slow, steady, consistent intake of the elements essential for growth. Compost will improve the texture of both clay and sandy soil. And, as an added benefit, compost improves plant vigor and provides for improved immunology from diseases.”

On an environmental level, composting “can significantly reduce the amount of solid waste that would otherwise find its way into the trash collection and dumping cycle.” So the more we compost, the less we contribute to the solid materials that sit in landfills.

Before you start mulching, you’ll need to obtain or make a container that is approximately one cubic yard (3’x3’x3’). And according to Ecocycle.org, size is important for the proper temperature. Piles that are too small cannot hold enough heat for effective microbial activity, and piles too large (more than 5 feet cubed) do not allow for enough air to reach microbes in the center of the pile.

Next, mix two parts brown (dry leaves, small twigs, straw, etc.) with one part green (grass clippings, kitchen scraps, etc.). This 2 to 1 ratio provides the best mix of carbon (brown materials) to nitrogen (greens). Chop or break up any twigs and large pieces of fruit and vegetable waste. Materials will break down more quickly with increased surface area.

Remember to keep it moist, but not soaking wet.

Also, keep it turning. Compost needs air. Turning the compost will help it break down and will prevent it from smelling unpleasant.

When it is ready your compost should look and smell like richsoil (just like earth). Use finished compost to feed your garden, flowers, potted plants, and lawn.

For flowers and vegetables, work in half an inch of mature compost into the top six inches of the soil with a garden fork or rototiller. Be sure that soil isn’t sodden with water as this can result in an “adobe effect” when it dries which adversely affects the plants.

For the lawn, sprinkle 1/8 to 1/4 inch of fine compost evenly across the grass to improve the lawn’s ability to use fertilizers more efficiently so that less is needed.

But you can’t just throw anything in a compost pile. Again, Ecocycle.org recommends “bones, meat, eggs (egg shells are okay), cheese, and other dairy products or oils be thrown in the garbage.” And keep the pets from doing their business in the pile, as well.

Always bury the food waste by pulling aside some of the bedding, dumping the waste, and then cover it up with the bedding again. If your compost is smelly, that’s a sign that it needs more air. Aerate your compost by regularly turning your pile.

So there are lots of benefits for composting...take your pick. All that’s left to do now is buy a pair of Birkenstocks and get in the garden. Just kidding.

Sources: TheGardenofOz.org; ecocycle.org/compost

Article appeared in our 27-4 Issue - October 2010